Jacques Fath Design 1947.
Historical Costume to be produced.
The Design is entitled '1947 wiggle dress' which i researched, however i could not find much/any information on this type of garment. Therefore analysing the photograph I decided to produce the garment as a skirt and jacket.
This project is unlike anything i have previously made, I chose this image for this reason to gain new construction skills and knowledge of 20th Century fashion.
A regular straight skirt block was toiled up first and fitted, however this did not fit with my Historical research and was later adapted (flare added to certain seams) this was again toiled up and was proven successful.
The skirt wasn't too difficult to construct, However cutting fabric on the bias can be tricky. An invisible zip was inserted into the back of the skirt, which was something i had never done before (and wouldn't like too again.) Lining the skirt was a much nicer job than I thought, I chose to line the sateen wool with a light weight silk habotai as I thought it would compliment the wool well, and wanted to keep a luxurious feel throughout the garment.
To construct the jacket, a stand was padded out with wadding to the precise measurements of the model. shoulder pads were created.
The process started with a basic shift produced on the stand.
Once the style lines had been drawn onto the toile, the individual pieces were cut out. The the jacket was to be constructed in 4 pieces at first. The outside top layer was to be cut and spread, as was the outside skirt. This was to add the excess fabric in, that creates the ruffles shown in the photograph.
The pattern pieces were cut and spread from various angles and some taken out and others made larger. This stage was very much trial and error, until the piece looked correct and fitted the model well.
The pattern pieces were cut in some purple wool that would be a similar weight to the fabric that was going to be used to construct the final suit.
Work was carried out on the stand, adding gathers and tucks in and adjusting the darts until the costume took shape.
The jacket was then fitted on the model.
A sleeve was also toiled up, I thought a 2 piece sleeve would work best to achieve a more fitted look.